Hola,
Still no camera (sorry, sorry... i´ll quit bringing it up starting...now.) Since i have no visual aids for today, i´ll try to paint you a little picture... I arrived back In Granada today after a gorgeous, but slightly nauseating sailboat ride from Ometepe to San Jorge/Rivas (the waves in Lake Cocibolca where the bull shark lives are quite big, for a lake), followed by a sweaty, jammed chicken bus with my pack tied to the top along with crates of empty soda bottles, a kitchen hutch, and bags of beans or rice among all sorts of other stuff. My new canadian friend, Irish Dave, kept me company and we had a coca-cola and some chickys (¨chocolate bisquits¨) in the bustling but tiny Rivas market before hopping on board for the 1.5hr trip. The countryside looks much better from a seat than it did when i was smashed, standing in the back on the way to Ometepe.
This afternoon, as the temperature finally dropped slowly by a couple degrees, i stopped to sit on the veranda of posh Hotel Plaza Colon in Granada. This! felt like how a vacation is supposed to feel. People walking and biking by, horse drawn carriages waiting for riders, people selling goods and going about their day. For the same reasons I like the pike place market, I like to watch the Parque Central; it hums with energy. Trees pop up all over to provide cool'ish shade above benches and homes for twittering birds and octagonal cobblestones circle a beautiful gazebo in the center where ¨Take My Breath Away¨ blares from the speakers of someone with a stereo sitting on the steps. Across the park -past the carriages that line the west side, past food and jewelry carts, past benches where young, old, and inbetween sit, past the kids hawking pirated dvds, cashews, and gourd pots - is the *bright!* yellow cathdral. Gorgeous, spanish-colonial architecture, built after William Walker torched the city in 1855-ish, it is THE landmark of town from which all directions are given.
This is definitely not the place for the average local, or at least i assume, unless they are here to sell goods to bumbling tourists like myself. There is buzzing energy here, despite the heat at 4pm. I could sit, drinking my nica libre with flor de cannas rum and watch for hours.
Friday, March 20, 2009
Thursday, March 19, 2009
A few pictures from yesterday... the horses along Playa Santo Domingo on the ride to Ojo de Agua.
Vulcan Concepcion. This is the live one. Either clouds or a little plume of gas was usually visible out the top each day. I thought, originally, i'd try to climb both but once i realized how steep and nasty it was at the top (very slick shale from what i could tell), plus being in vacation mode, i kicked that idea to the curb and hiked just the "easy" one.
The road. Quality. This was a good patch. People on scooters, in vans, riding horses, on bikes... every mode of transport shared the road.
The trusty raleigh i borrowed from the hostel....No shocks and shoddy breaks but it got me there.
From teh dock of Hacienda Merida. A lovely little spot, was once a hacienda for the old regime before they were toppled. Fell into ruin for a bit, until, lucky for us travelers, it was purchased and fixed up into a travelers spot. Their sister city, oddly enough, is Bainbridge island. Go figure.
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Sometimes, things so missing
And that is exactly what has happened to my camera. Donde esta yo camera? My kind hostel keeper has put up a sign requesting, if it (..side note...some how, these nicaraguan keyboards have stolen my words and replaced them with weird characters. not sure what happened but i'll have to attempt to piece together the stories i told before. so here goes:).."is returned that a reward will be given and many thanks too. So far no one has turned anything in. My kind, and fun roommate Fregke (he is Dutch and i dont have a clue how to spell his name, but it rhymes with wreck)" (sp) lent me his camera today for short bit so i was able to take a few, as well as snag a few from the ferry where i met him and his buddy Jaret. I am on the li´l island of Ometepe, in the bustling town of Merida. It is a bustling town because chickens, pigs, horses, people on bikes, people in trucks, and on horses and on foot, seem to be continually going by. Not to give you the wrong impression - its really very rural out here. but, seems like there is a lot of activity.
Yesterday, i made the trek from Granada to Rivas via bus, then a taxi to San Jorge for a ferry to Moyogalpa, Ometepe to catch a taxi to Merida. Here i am. The chicken bus was kind of like being on toads wild ride at disneyland, if you´ve been there.
With my big pack on i bumbled through the Granada market, so many things to look at!, and made my way towards the bus. So many things for sale and they all looked so good - bags of beans, and piles of pineapple. As i neared the bus stop, a kid came up to me asking, ¨Rivas?!, Rivas?!¨ And after my stuttered ¨si!¨ he pointed me towards a bus and i was shoved on. Not so bad, it seemed, since i got a seat next to a quiet guy. We bumped along for a half hour or so until all of a sudden a bunch of guys were yelling, Rivas!¨, ¨Rivas!¨, then proceeded to pick up my pack, walk to the back of the yellow school bus painted red, and then threw my bag out. So i followed my pack. On the side of the highway, with a few other people, i confusedly asked on guy, ¨Rivas?¨ (my side of conversations usually consist of a single word, in question form). He said he didnt know - an english speaker! - but soon another bus pulled up, my pack was grabbed, and i followed it to the back of the bus, where i was smooshed on with enough other people to comfortably fit at least 2 school buses. Now my chicken bus experience was really starting.
From there, the taxi from Rivas to San Jorge, then the ferry to Ometepe (it looked more like a 3 story tug boat, where, even on the 3rd deck we got wet from waves), and the taxi along mostly unpaved roads for 2 hrs to Merida. Which leads me to the sad story of my camera. I was sitting in a hammock, looking at my pics from the day. Got to talking to a few locals, forgetting my camera was in my lap. got up for some agua and the camera? donde esta? i dont know... fingers crossed for its return..
Today, i took a solemn, cameraless bike ride up the road (again...weird characters... this is what i think i wrote...)"to a lovely, calm and tranquil place, the Ojo de Agua. These are natural springs that are beleived to have healing properties by the locals. Perhaps they'd heal my poor camera-less induced broken heart. I attempted to study my spanish for a bit by laying in a hammock and reading my travel dictionary. Note: if you ever have trouble sleeping, i recommend laying in a hammock, in 90degree heat and reading a dictionary. Dont know how long i snoozed but it was nice. Woke up to the sounds of others arriving. Apparently, my short-in-distance but long-in-time (approx 7km, at 2hrs) bike ride still got me out for the day before any other tourists. By the time i'd biked, met my friend Maria-Elena (she's 10yrs old, has about 5 sisters and 4 brothers all named either Maria-xxx or Juan-xxx except the youngest boy, Marco-Antionio) , snoozed in a hammock, and studied spanish, the others on the island were just giving their sleepy muscles a good stretch to the sky. Decided to give those cool, healing waters a go and dipped in. Very nice, very refreshing, and very clean. The pool has been kept in a mostly natural state, other than the cement stone wall around it with a couple big steps in. Swam a bit, sat in the sun a bit. Ordered on of the best lunches i'd had for pennies and sipped a nice fresh pineapple juice. Took the long road back after a nice cool soak.
The long road back was really REALLY long. In the hot direct sun of mid-day, i decided to make my way back to merida. Met Fregk (?) and Jaret along the way - they'd mistakenly turned too soon and found themselves on an hour long dirt road detour. A note about the roads: their main road around the island is worse than any fireroad i've riden back home. Huge potholes, loose rocks and boulders everywhere, dusty as a desert, chunks of tire sucking cement... and mad drivers careening past, squeezing between me, the cement chunks and heards of cows. Which on another note, are terrifying to ride through. I envisioned getting bucked over fences by mean, hungry cows. Oye. With a stop at a hostel along the way for another cool drink, i made it back to Hacienda Merida. Still no camera. But a nice long dock with a cool lake to take a swim in.
Yesterday, i made the trek from Granada to Rivas via bus, then a taxi to San Jorge for a ferry to Moyogalpa, Ometepe to catch a taxi to Merida. Here i am. The chicken bus was kind of like being on toads wild ride at disneyland, if you´ve been there.
With my big pack on i bumbled through the Granada market, so many things to look at!, and made my way towards the bus. So many things for sale and they all looked so good - bags of beans, and piles of pineapple. As i neared the bus stop, a kid came up to me asking, ¨Rivas?!, Rivas?!¨ And after my stuttered ¨si!¨ he pointed me towards a bus and i was shoved on. Not so bad, it seemed, since i got a seat next to a quiet guy. We bumped along for a half hour or so until all of a sudden a bunch of guys were yelling, Rivas!¨, ¨Rivas!¨, then proceeded to pick up my pack, walk to the back of the yellow school bus painted red, and then threw my bag out. So i followed my pack. On the side of the highway, with a few other people, i confusedly asked on guy, ¨Rivas?¨ (my side of conversations usually consist of a single word, in question form). He said he didnt know - an english speaker! - but soon another bus pulled up, my pack was grabbed, and i followed it to the back of the bus, where i was smooshed on with enough other people to comfortably fit at least 2 school buses. Now my chicken bus experience was really starting.
From there, the taxi from Rivas to San Jorge, then the ferry to Ometepe (it looked more like a 3 story tug boat, where, even on the 3rd deck we got wet from waves), and the taxi along mostly unpaved roads for 2 hrs to Merida. Which leads me to the sad story of my camera. I was sitting in a hammock, looking at my pics from the day. Got to talking to a few locals, forgetting my camera was in my lap. got up for some agua and the camera? donde esta? i dont know... fingers crossed for its return..
Today, i took a solemn, cameraless bike ride up the road (again...weird characters... this is what i think i wrote...)
The long road back was really REALLY long. In the hot direct sun of mid-day, i decided to make my way back to merida. Met Fregk (?) and Jaret along the way - they'd mistakenly turned too soon and found themselves on an hour long dirt road detour. A note about the roads: their main road around the island is worse than any fireroad i've riden back home. Huge potholes, loose rocks and boulders everywhere, dusty as a desert, chunks of tire sucking cement... and mad drivers careening past, squeezing between me, the cement chunks and heards of cows. Which on another note, are terrifying to ride through. I envisioned getting bucked over fences by mean, hungry cows. Oye. With a stop at a hostel along the way for another cool drink, i made it back to Hacienda Merida. Still no camera. But a nice long dock with a cool lake to take a swim in.
Monday, March 16, 2009
Sunscreen is good.
I´d recommend wearing a lot more than i did today. I´m a little pink. But it was a great day! I even was able to figure out how to buy a bottle of flor de canas rum! Here´s a little review of the day...
this is where i spent the end of my day. my hostel has a pool in the middle of the building -open air style. not bad for $13.
looking down on the street from the la merced bell tower. everyone rides bikes here
the view from the la merced bell tower. the main cathedral is in the distance. my hostel is about to blocks down, and 2 to the right of the bell tower. 
the pics are a little out of order... and i´m not blog savvy enough to reorder them... the pic above of the crosses is from the granada cemetary. beautiful. they put so much into making their resting places lovely. 
on the boat ride around las isletas of granada. vulcan mombacho spewed out a bunch of rock a few thousands of years ago that created this group of 300 islands. we stopped here for a fanta...
my new friend lucy. she lives on monkey island. we had to hide our packs because lucy has an amazing sniffer and would´ve gone straight for anything edible.
we met this fisherman along the way who showed us his catch of the day. beautiful fishies... too bad they´ll be dinner for someone tonight.
our trusty fiberglass boat ' guapotona (its a type of fish).had a great day today with my guide Ramon who took me everywhere and sacrificed his poor feet to walk all over the place. I got the impression that his clients dont usually walk that far. Off to Ometepe tomorrow to hike a volcano and look for more of Lucy´s relatives.
buenos noches
Sunday, March 15, 2009
First impressions...
Every dog looks like maile. But a little less well-fed. Thanks N, J, and B for giving my girl some love while i´m gone.
People drive really fast here, and flash their lights all the time . I cant figure out the logic; sometimes the brights are on, sometimes not, sometimes you give a little flashyflash to the oncoming drivers and sometimes they flash back. Or sometimes they dont. Sometimes you flash the bicyclists or pedestrians who are walking awfully close to where the cars are zooming by. But not always.... I´ll have to figure that one out.
It is hot and humid and it´ll be nice to get out of my 2-day old clothes, but considering that i heard more snow fell in seattle... well, i wish you all could be here. It smells humid too - kinda a cross between the exhale of trees and plants, some sort of sweet sugar cane aroma, burning brush, with a light hint of soggy socks in the air. Not bad though, as a whole.
Didnt see too much yet, since i flew in in the dark, but i did fly by several discos with killer music and lots of dancing. Me gusto baylen. Think i´ll have to take a night to go shake it at the disco.
In case anyone had any doubts, it is a li´l hard to get around if you dont speak spanish. surprise surprise. i feel like an alien on an awesome new planet (i really like it here so far). But people are patient. My driver guy was very good about helping me figure out pronunciation and we were actually able to squeek out a mini conversation. People get personal fast though - he asked my age, where my novio was(?!?!), and did i like rum. I think we´re friends now.
Will post some pics tomorrow. Hasta luego!
People drive really fast here, and flash their lights all the time . I cant figure out the logic; sometimes the brights are on, sometimes not, sometimes you give a little flashyflash to the oncoming drivers and sometimes they flash back. Or sometimes they dont. Sometimes you flash the bicyclists or pedestrians who are walking awfully close to where the cars are zooming by. But not always.... I´ll have to figure that one out.
It is hot and humid and it´ll be nice to get out of my 2-day old clothes, but considering that i heard more snow fell in seattle... well, i wish you all could be here. It smells humid too - kinda a cross between the exhale of trees and plants, some sort of sweet sugar cane aroma, burning brush, with a light hint of soggy socks in the air. Not bad though, as a whole.
Didnt see too much yet, since i flew in in the dark, but i did fly by several discos with killer music and lots of dancing. Me gusto baylen. Think i´ll have to take a night to go shake it at the disco.
In case anyone had any doubts, it is a li´l hard to get around if you dont speak spanish. surprise surprise. i feel like an alien on an awesome new planet (i really like it here so far). But people are patient. My driver guy was very good about helping me figure out pronunciation and we were actually able to squeek out a mini conversation. People get personal fast though - he asked my age, where my novio was(?!?!), and did i like rum. I think we´re friends now.
Will post some pics tomorrow. Hasta luego!
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Travel Tip Numbero Uno...
Come prepared with your own minibottles....
Arrived at LAX at 10:45... finished my book (great choice on the first one, bookclub!! i'm finally ready to moveon to book 2). Decided it would be a good idea to leave my quiet, Alaska Airlines terminal on my first trip quest: to find the American Airlines terminal. Apparantely, they dont let you in till 4am. And the restaurants (and bars too, damnit!)at the international terminal (and the only terminal open ) all close at 11pm. And duty free doesnt sell mini bottles. Only fifths. Dont know that i really want to start enjoying my vacations THAT much just yet.... :) so here i am, at LAX, wishing i had a tasty beverage and looking for a nice place to nestle in for a few hours nap... (oh, pause!!*** side notee\*** a police officer on a segway just drove by!!!(do you "drive' a segway? or maybe "ride" one?) LAX is very fancy). Isnt this an exciting trip report? And arent youhappy you ae still readin? Second tip of the night - check the keyboard of the cheap "computer" you use before you put your $3 in. mine, is not so rsponsive. Anyhow, thanks for allowing me a few minutes entertainment during my layover.
PS - i'm totally rocking the espanol!! some guys were talking and one asked, "el bano?" and i completely undertood what he was saying. think i'll go stroll the various non-secure parts of the airport that i have access to and listen in on conversations to keep up with my spanish lessons.
Hasta luego. t
Arrived at LAX at 10:45... finished my book (great choice on the first one, bookclub!! i'm finally ready to moveon to book 2). Decided it would be a good idea to leave my quiet, Alaska Airlines terminal on my first trip quest: to find the American Airlines terminal. Apparantely, they dont let you in till 4am. And the restaurants (and bars too, damnit!)at the international terminal (and the only terminal open ) all close at 11pm. And duty free doesnt sell mini bottles. Only fifths. Dont know that i really want to start enjoying my vacations THAT much just yet.... :) so here i am, at LAX, wishing i had a tasty beverage and looking for a nice place to nestle in for a few hours nap... (oh, pause!!*** side notee\*** a police officer on a segway just drove by!!!(do you "drive' a segway? or maybe "ride" one?) LAX is very fancy). Isnt this an exciting trip report? And arent youhappy you ae still readin? Second tip of the night - check the keyboard of the cheap "computer" you use before you put your $3 in. mine, is not so rsponsive. Anyhow, thanks for allowing me a few minutes entertainment during my layover.
PS - i'm totally rocking the espanol!! some guys were talking and one asked, "el bano?" and i completely undertood what he was saying. think i'll go stroll the various non-secure parts of the airport that i have access to and listen in on conversations to keep up with my spanish lessons.
Hasta luego. t
Friday, March 13, 2009
How to Plan a Vacation, 101
1. After swearing off big trips for the year, receive a mail solicitation for an air-miles credit card. Realize you have a crapload of miles you didnt know you had. And if you get a credit card, you'll have more!!! Sign up for card. Stimulate the economy.
2. Call the airlines to find out if you can go to destination #1. After finding out you can get there, but wouldn't be able to get back, put destination #1 back on the list of places to go, someday.
3. Pick a book off your shelf for a region you've never been to, but just so happen to have the guide for. Read it. Front to back. (cant help myself, i really like guide books). Make a spreadsheet incl. each country, with things to do, potential diseases, food options, beach options, poisonous insects/reptiles, etc. Pick the country that has the best overall ranking. (again, i realize my spreadsheet put me in the land of dorkville. i'm ok with that)
4. Call the airlines and book a ticket! Yay! After hanging up the phone, realize that you dont speak the language. Oops.
I leave tomorrow for Nicaragua - a place many people have gone before. Really, i cant get that lost. I took a spanish class, (though i maybe should've studied a little more...). I even made a couple reservations! And i have an excellent travel buddy coming for the second half. So I'll be just fine. I promise, Mom.
I'll try to post a few notes and pics along the way. Do you have a good travel tip for me before i head out? I'm taking a calculator, will take pics of my maps on my camera for stealth studying, and will ask women with children for help if i feel unsure (thanks Aaron, Owen and Jenny, and Alyssa for the good ideas). Lemme know i you have any other good ideas. I'll let you know how they work out. Cheers!
T
2. Call the airlines to find out if you can go to destination #1. After finding out you can get there, but wouldn't be able to get back, put destination #1 back on the list of places to go, someday.
3. Pick a book off your shelf for a region you've never been to, but just so happen to have the guide for. Read it. Front to back. (cant help myself, i really like guide books). Make a spreadsheet incl. each country, with things to do, potential diseases, food options, beach options, poisonous insects/reptiles, etc. Pick the country that has the best overall ranking. (again, i realize my spreadsheet put me in the land of dorkville. i'm ok with that)
4. Call the airlines and book a ticket! Yay! After hanging up the phone, realize that you dont speak the language. Oops.
I leave tomorrow for Nicaragua - a place many people have gone before. Really, i cant get that lost. I took a spanish class, (though i maybe should've studied a little more...). I even made a couple reservations! And i have an excellent travel buddy coming for the second half. So I'll be just fine. I promise, Mom.
I'll try to post a few notes and pics along the way. Do you have a good travel tip for me before i head out? I'm taking a calculator, will take pics of my maps on my camera for stealth studying, and will ask women with children for help if i feel unsure (thanks Aaron, Owen and Jenny, and Alyssa for the good ideas). Lemme know i you have any other good ideas. I'll let you know how they work out. Cheers!
T
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